2021 Kenya Trip Report: Part Deux

Now that I’ve covered all the mundane, logistical details of getting into Kenya (see here), let’s talk about the fun part: THE ACTUAL EXPERIENCE!

Our overall trip was just shy of two weeks, including two nights in Nairobi at the start and then ten nights in the Masai Mara, staying at four different safari camps. During our short time in Nairobi, we visited the amazing Giraffe Centre, something I’d highly recommend for anyone with a couple extra hours. During Covid times you’re required to make an appointment to visit, which was great because it limited the number of guests trying to hand-feed and take photos with the giraffes 🦒. Normally I’d also say a visit to the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust is a MUST to see the work they do with orphaned elephants, but unfortunately they are currently closed to the public 🐘😭.

Onto safari…

We flew from Nairobi (Wilson Airport) to our first stop and back to Nairobi from our last stop, but otherwise we transferred via road between the camps. While some of these drives were a bit long and on rough/muddy roads (which take the “African massage” joke to a whole new level!), they were also game drives, so rarely boring. We coordinated meeting points between the camps, so our guide from one camp would take us to a gate about halfway, where we’d meet our new guide and switch vehicles for the remainder of the drive. Now keep in mind, this is not an itinerary I would recommend for clients - especially for a first visit. It was a lot of movement, and a LOT of time in the bush. For comparison, the average number of nights on safari for a first timer to Africa is about four.

But I digress…

Our first stop on safari was the award-winning Cottar’s 1920s Safari Camp. To get there from Nairobi, we flew a small 12-seater plane about 45 minutes to Keekorok Airstrip, courtesy of Safarilink. We were met by two lovely Maasai men from Cottar’s and we then enjoyed a game drive on the way to camp, about a two-hour ride. Keep in mind you can also fly into the private airstrip at Cottar’s, which is much more convenient if schedules and budgets line up.

The feel of Cottar’s 1920s Safari Camp is romance and vintage luxury. The canvas tents might make you think rustic and simple, but once you step inside, you feel feel like you’ve been transported in time - perhaps to the 1920’s! You have all the creature comforts to make your safari a bit ‘easier’ - running water, flush toilets, comfortable bed with mosquito net, power strip in the room to charge devices, etc. However it’s the little touches throughout the rooms and main dining/lounge tents that make Cottar’s so unique. The gorgeous Persian rugs, the rocking chairs in front of your tent, the plush robes, and the privacy you feel from neighboring tents all make you feel right at home. The wide range of books, the photos from the Cottar family history, the unique travel-inspired artifacts, and the elegant and diverse furniture in the Mess and Explorers Tents will keep you mesmerized between game drives. It may also make you want hire their interior designer!

The experience at Cottar’s is wonderful: from the game drives on their own private concession (a short drive into the actual Mara Game Reserve) to the bush walks with your Maasai guides (you can also run with the Maasai!); from a stroll through the beautiful organic garden to a nap beside the gorgeous pool; and if you’re staying in the private Bush Villa, the endless, otherworldly views that will take your breath away. The food was top notch - healthy, plenty of varied and vegetarian options, and delicious. The people were spectacular and genuine - the kind who make you feel like you’ve known them forever. It was a perfect place to start our safari adventure, and certainly a tough act to follow.

Before moving on, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the weather and landscape we experienced. January is normally one of the hottest and driest months of the year in this region. With hot, dry conditions, the grass is short and animals are generally easier to spot. Plains game (antelope, zebra, wildebeest, etc) will graze out in the open, as the predators have a harder time hiding as they approach. When the grass is high due to lots of rain, it’s a different story. The plains game move to different locations - areas where locals have taken their cattle to graze, thus keeping the grass short. And as you’d expect, the predators follow! With that in mind - Kenya has gotten a LOT of rain over the last several months (including the first few nights we were there). Everywhere we went, the locals commented on the high grass - again, something incredibly rare for January - and thus the shortage of wildlife in the Mara. The game viewing throughout our trip was relatively quiet because of this, but still solid. We saw the “Big Five.” We saw nine different cheetahs. We spent two hours with a pride of nine active lions - including the CUTEST little cubs!!! And we saw more elephants than I can count, including several babies less than a month old! It didn’t suck ;)

Anyhoo…

Our second stop on safari was a very different type of camp: Sarova Mara Game Camp. In contrast to the nine tents at Cottar’s, Sarova Mara has more than 70 rooms. It’s less private luxury, more communal and accessible. Ideal for larger groups or families, or those who have a smaller budget but still want to experience the Mara. It’s certainly more approachable for those nervous about going on safari in Africa. The dining during Covid was an ‘assisted buffet’ style, but in normal times, you’ll find a standard buffet with a wide variety of options - albeit more of a cafeteria feel than you’ll see at the more intimate or luxury properties. There’s a swimming pool, ping pong and pool tables, and a dartboard at Sarova Mara. Set on a huge piece of land, you’ll also find scattered benches where you can escape with a book or just enjoy a Kenyan sunset. And be sure to get a tour of the incredible gardens that seems to go on forever. Listening to the head gardener share his passion will leave you speechless (and wishing you could keep any plant alive 😳). The property is also fenced, so you can walk around freely day or night without worrying about animals.

The roads around Sarova Mara are busier, so you’ll definitely see more vehicles, including self-drivers. But in normal times, you don’t have to go far to see wildlife. Your views are of wide-ranging open plains, dotted with acacia trees, with rolling hills in the distance. The newer vehicles at Sarova Mara are also exceptional, available on request for an additional fee.

Despite its size, Sarova Mara certainly doesn’t lack warmth. Every person you encounter - from the smiling faces at reception, to the restaurant team, to the general manager - genuinely wants you to have an incredible experience. They go out of their way to create special moments. Whether it’s a private dinner at the Lookout Deck or a surprise tree-planting ceremony, you’re sure to leave Sarova Mara with happy memories.

Next up we headed to Naibor Camp, located almost exactly in the center of the Masai Mara Game Reserve. Naibor is a traditional luxury tented camp with a spectacular location. There isn’t anything showy about Naibor. The main Mess tent is fairly basic, with beautiful natural wood tables and chairs, comfortable couches and bean bags to relax, and a handful of African books and decorative pieces to complete the theme. The guest tents have nearly everything you’d want, including a ton of space, charging ports next to the beds, flush toilets, and views of the Talek River. One of my favorite parts is that, in addition to the main firepit area outside the Mess tent, every individual guest tent has a private firepit and loungers overlooking the river. A perfect place to enjoy a cocktail in the evening or just relax between game drives.

The location of Naibor is what sets it apart. Hidden among the trees so you can’t see the camp until your vehicle is parked right in front, the camp is laid out along the famous Talek River, not far from the major wildebeest crossing points of the Mara River. While the location provides easy access to nearly every corner of the reserve for game drives, you also don’t need to leave camp to have a great wildlife experience. While dining under the trees overlooking the river, you’ll be entertained by the local hippo pod who call that part of the Talek River home. We saw quite a bit of action while at camp, as there was a baby hippo whose mom was sparring with the any hippos who got too close, and we even had three lions come relax on the far side of the riverbank, eventually being chased off by the territorial hippos. Oh and I can’t forget the leopard tortoise (one of Africa’s Little Five) who wandered right into the main tent one afternoon! I loved the simplicity of Naibor Camp, the feeling of privacy and of being fully immersed in nature. It’s certainly not for everyone, but I can tell you that three nights went by way too fast here!

For our fourth and final stop on safari, we head to the Mara Triangle and the stunning Angama Mara. Once again we drove here from our meeting point (this time Musiara Gate), but guests can also fly into the airstrip just a few minutes from camp. Angama is actually made up of two identical camps - North and South Camp. There’s a central pavilion with a pool, fitness room, and gift shop, and then each camp has its own main tent for lounging/dining. The camp is located on the top of the escarpment, just outside the Mara Triangle, overlooking the magical Masai Mara. For game drives, it’s about a 15-minute drive down the steep escarpment to the main road - but even the ride down is often marked by wildlife and certainly amazing views. The Mara Triangle has very specific rules, including that all vehicles need to be out of the park or back at camp by 7:00pm sharp. This means sundowners are more than likely on the camp’s property and not out on a drive, but that’s not a bad thing when you’re staying at Angama.

In short, Angama Mara is a dream. I teared up when I walked in and saw the views - from both the main tent and from our room. Imagine multiple fireplaces, a library and map room, large pool and fitness room, and a main deck complete with telescope and amazing firepit area. As for the guest rooms, I’d be totally content if I had to quarantine there for weeks at a time. Spacious, comfortable, and with floor-to-ceiling glass along the full wall looking out onto your private deck and the Mara beyond. A separate bathtup and shower, double vanity, spacious closet, heated blanket on your bed, and rocking chairs on your private deck are just a handful of the comforts that stand out. I also loved the binoculars in each room that you are encouraged to bring with you on game drives, and the beautiful safari tote bag for use during your stay (which they also sell in the gift shop and I now own 🤷🏻‍♀️).

Dining at Angama Mara is on par with any 5-star restaurant. If dining at the main tent, you get a proper menu with a variety of starters and main dishes. For breakfast you’re also presented with a butler’s tray of juices, fruits, and muesli. Lunch can be at the main tent, out in the bush, at the Lookout Deck of their gorgeous Shamba Garden, or perhaps at the special ‘Out of Africa’ site for special occasions. Dinner under the stars at camp is as peaceful and romantic as you’d imagine. And of course, beverages are included and plentiful.

Photos do NOT and cannot do Angama Mara justice. For anyone who doesn’t want to compromise on luxury while on safari, it’s a perfect option. That being said, for those wanting a truly immersive African safari experience, the feel of truly being in the bush and ‘roughing it’ even slightly, this may not be the best option. After experiencing these four truly unique accommodations, I’m reminded that there truly is something for everyone in Kenya, and certainly in the Masai Mara. This is why working with a travel advisor is SO IMPORTANT. There are plenty of beautiful camps, lovely people, and unique locations when considering a safari. The key is to match the client(s) with the best option(s) for them and their trip. What I love personally won’t necessarily be what I’d recommend for my friends, family, or clients. There’s no right or wrong. There’s just the magic of Africa 🌍💫❤️.


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